Transferring prints on to a silk screen

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We were asked after last lesson to produce a range of prints in black and white that we could transfer on to a screen, reason being so that we could produce a range of prints using colour and layer, these prints will progress over the weeks and the ones that are most successful we will work in to, using flocking, foiling, dying, devoure etc.

I created about 20 designs, including hand drawn prints, and also photocopies in black and white and negative from my summer project. However, i thought that my hand drawn designs were a lot more effective than my photocopied prints so I ended up using most of those as they were newer to me. After i created these i began playing around with scale on the photocopier, making some prints larger and i actually really liked them.

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These were my final prints, i thought they were the ones that looked best together, my finals included two original hand drawn prints, two negative photocopies: one in which is a negative from another, and an enlarged print. I used all new prints and none from my summer project as i wanted to use it as inspiration but create newer, more interesting prints.

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When i transferred my prints on to the first screen, it didn’t come out very well, as i have never exposed a screen before so i washed it off at too higher pressure therefore the print came off too. However, even though my screen was a bit of a disaster, i didn’t give up. I decided to still make some prints to give me a rough idea of what they would look like when exposed successfully. Will told me to pick some colours that were already mixed that contrasted, so i chose a turquoise, a bright magenta, and a pale but bright orange. I actually really liked these colours together and have decided to use them as my colour way for this project.

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Even though the prints didn’t come out how i wanted them to i really liked them. They were exciting and busy and i love how the colours layer on top of each other, the top right hand photo in the image above shows the orange coming through underneath the magenta, i didn’t think this would happen but i found it quite interesting, it was an accident that i hope i can produce again when i next print on my more successful screen.

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Print Design for Scarf

I feel really happy with how much I achieved in Will’s session today, a lot of the other students didn’t attend the lesson so it gave me a lot of time to talk to him one on one about my work and how it could be improved.

I arrived to lesson today without any ideas as to what I was planning to do because I wasn’t entirely sure what we had to research, so i felt slightly nervous as I thought i was behind and everyone would have loads more work than me. When i got there we all sat around a table and everyone agreed that they didn’t really understand the task that was set the previous week, so we all had a small group discussion about what we could do, moving on to everyone individually, receiving and giving feedback about the images that we chose from the archive.

I decided to look at african and indian cultures and oriental rugs etc which were interesting to me because it’s not usually something that i’d choose to look at, I hate things like that and usually cringe at the thought however, i thought about it and gave it a chance, as i’d only be using it for mark making inspiration. I focused more on the weave in the fabric, I started off using just black and white but got really stuck and actually quite bored, so my tutor suggested working which bleach and ink to make things more interesting, as I could see potential for it in my research. I thought it was a really good idea as I love this process and I used this technique in my support module last year.

I had already worked on my free-hand printing techniques over the summer so at the archive I purposely chose a print that was similar to my work and most suited the techniques that I was using. I really like my summer project work and was hoping that I would be able to use it in my project as I put a lot of hard work and time in to it and didn’t want it to be wasted.

I used mainly paintbrushes for my designs and some other everyday equipment such as bits of card, rulers, forks and stamps to create my prints and I layered them to create the effect. I did go off course a little bit though and started losing focus on my research, however I am really pleased with my prints and I fully understand what my project is about.

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Lecture: Beginning With Intention (JS)

Notes from the lecture:

  • All crafted and designed objects and images are intentional
  • the work of the artist is not the same as the work of the designer
  • the quality of intention distinguishes natural objects from the things that human beings make
  • Tracey Emin – her work always has intentiontracey-emin-my-bed
  • An intentional object: chair (invented)
  • a natural object: tree (not invented)
  • sensory experience – natural objects
  • concept/intention (invented object)
  • Artists mix up natural and invented things – becomes a problem
  • talking/writing does participate to understanding
  • only your eye can tell you if an object is successful or not
  • we see an object according to interpretation
  • need to understand theoretically what things do, this makes you a successful artist
  • knowing what your practice will turn in to
  • no practice without theory
  • forgot the difference between intentional and natural objects
  • cant simply look and experience.
  • a dress only has an intended function when it is worn – if it isnt worn then it doesnt have an intentional concept
  • art is an intentional act
  • the process or activity of making clothes is determined by practical and aesthetic needs or intentions outside or beyond that of making them
  • fashion satisfies practical and semiotic needs
  • clothes have a meaning
  • clothes separate us from nature – privacy
  • clothes cover organs in which bring us closer to nature
  • other animals go about naked
  • work is an imposed and forced labour that satisfies others, no one would work if they didnt have to
  • artistic labour is different – it’s unique because it is free, an end in itself which merely satisfies the artist
  • it isnt subordinated to external needs or necessities, it primarily satisfies the needs of the artist themselves.

Seminar: Understanding fashion

  • There are several definitions to help us further understand the meaning of fashion
  • skills and knowledge come into the production of the functional product
  • ICONOGRAPHY
  • “one should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art” – Oscar Wilde
  • non-verbally communicate meanings about individuals and groups
  • it is a continual, largely uninterupted and even institutionalized succession of stylistic changes in dress, adornment and decorative design
  • e.g. ‘black and gold’ represents glamour and wealth
  • fashion is textile construction industrially replicated, whose meaning is given by marketing techniques.

This lecture really made me think about combining natural and invented things together, it confused me actually because in fashion/textile design many things are collaborated together for a print to be made… for example a floral design (initially from a natural flower) is printed on to a manmade fabric. Jeremy also mentioned that clothes have no purpose unless they’re worn, this may be in a practical sense but of course they have more purpose than to be worn for modesty or protection. People use clothing as a way of portraying their personalities, especially nowadays they have become a lot more important to people’s appearances, I am always planning outfits for certain occasions because if i don’t plan and end up going out in something that I don’t think looks good enough or that I feel comfortable in it makes me feel unnattractive and unhappy about myself. I am constantly thinking about the clothing I am going to buy next (mentally buying!) and when and where I will where it and who with etc. Clothes are a huge part of my life, not only because we have to wear them to cover up but I choose to wear the clothes that I wear because they make me feel comfortable about my appearance, clothes really are a work of art and they should be shown off by being worn just like art is shown off in a gallery.

Identifying personalities throughout fabrics

I thought that the lesson today was useful, even though it seemed silly, it gave me an insight on how to design textiles for the right audience.

We were asked to look at a silk scarf and think about the type of person who would wear it. We were asked to include their name, age, gender, marital status, children, job, house, where they shop and their lifestyle. I actually found this task quite difficult but I enjoyed it because it got me thinking.

I worked with my classmate Sophie, and we discussed a few scarves that we picked, one in which was definitely a Brenda. The scarf had a dated pattern and the colours were neutral and dull, to me this was a woman in her late 60s who was retired with a husband and two adult children. It’s strange how you can make up a personality from a piece of fabric.

At the end of the session we were expected to have made a mood board about the person we chose. As we were working in pairs, we chose the one that we thought would supply the most information, we chose one which we decided was suited for the designer Lawrence Llewelyn Bowen because of the pattern, I found the task fairly easy because I already know a fair amount about him and we were able to produce a busy, colourful and effective mood board.

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Warner Textiles Archive

At first i didn’t know much about this trip, all i knew was that it was a trip to braintree to a textile gallery. Therefore i was actually expecting to see a large variety of different textiles techniques, however, when we arrived it looked like a warehouse, and we entered it into what looked like a souvenir shop. I was quite annoyed when we were greeted as we were told that phones and cameras were strictly forbidden and I didn’t take my sketchbook with me as i was told that i wouldn’t need it.

After the introduction we were taken into a private room where all of the prints were stored, i already told my tutor that i didn’t want to focus on geometrics this year because thats what i always focus on, neither did i want to focus on florals, because they dont really interest me… and the first range of prints we were shown were geometrics, and the second were florals.

At first, there were too many colours and bold prints and i didnt really like them, some of them had aspects which really interested me, and i think this is actually a good way to work, because you want to use certain parts instead of copying the whole thing, so i was focusing on colour ways and print techniques that i could use in my scarf project. The prints ranged throughout almost a century so there was a lot there to work from, however i was expecting to see more interesting and contemporary prints, but i suppose that is what this is all about, taking the old and making it into the new.

When going into the second year of my degree I knew staight away that textiles was what i wanted to do, especially print, and i am excited to start learning new techniques on to fabric as all ive ever really applied print to is paper.

The ladies at the archive photocopied images of the prints for us to take away, when we arrived back at the studio our tutor told us to take 3 prints to get inspiration and techniques from for our designs. I chose three, one being for my colour way, and the other two for my technique process.

V&A: Club to Catwalk exhibition 15/10/2013

In class last week we watched a film on Boy George called ‘worried about the boy’, i found it interesting because we were able to see what the fashion was like in the 80s. In my opinion it seemed as though everyone had to be that one bit better than everybody else, and i think that Boy George, in his drag attire was at the top of the chain. People wanted other people to walk past them and be shocked at what they were wearing, they wanted to stand out, and i think that watching this video became useful because it helped me to understand and appreciate the Club to Catwalk exhibition much more.

‘ Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s showcases the bold and exciting new looks by the most experimental young designers of the decade, including Betty Jackson, Katharine Hamnett, Wendy Dagworthy and John Galliano.

The exhibition traces the emerging theatricality in British fashion as the capital’s vibrant and eclectic club scene influenced a new generation of designers. Also celebrating iconic styles such as New Romantic and High Camp, and featuring outfits worn by Adam Ant and Leigh Bowery, the exhibition explores how the creative relationship between catwalk and club wear helped reinvent fashion, as reflected in magazines such as i-D and Blitz and venues including Heaven and Taboo. ‘

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Club to Catwalk highlighted fashion in the 80s very well, the clothes i saw in this exhibition were definitely nothing like you would see on the highstreet today, they were very lively and energetic. I was really excited by the clothes in the exhibition as they were nothing like anything i’d seen before; they were amazing, especially in person.

However, although the exibition was very interesting, it didn’t inspire me much. I thought that the garments were very minimal for one and not constructed in a way that i would use, there were many heavy leather garments which were held together by pins and buckles – i like the biker look but this was a bit too much for me, i also thought that the colours were too valiant and vibrant that they began to clash, this may have been the fashion in the 80s but it isn’t very contempory now and i am looking at focusing on more fresh designs but keeping the unusual or unique intact.

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I wear a lot of vintage clothing from charity shops and vintage shops/markets therefore my style influences the type of designs and work that i create, so after not gathering much useful inspiration at the V&A i decided to move on to Brick Lane, unfortunately the vintage markets only run on Friday, Saturday and Sunday I still thought i’d go and see what they had in places like Rokit and Blitz (seeings as it was relevant to my studies) even though the shops and clothes always smell like old dust and moths you can always tell that the best quality garments are the old ones. I know that fashion nowadays is all about recycling old fashion and making it new, yes i do this, and it may make me a sheep, but indiviulality isn’t about the clothes you wear, it’s about how you dress them.

Support Module: Development of Textile Boundaries (Semester 1)

I thought that todays lesson was really useful, it gave me an insight into print and different fabrics as we had a group talk and indentified all the different fabrics and were given a ‘luxury pack’ for our samples in which we went through.

I am excited to start after being introduced to the project – which is to create a scarf – the intention being to focus on print. However, i am also quite scared as we are going straight into this project without a sketchbook so there isn’t much planning involved. In many ways i am happy we don’t have to have a sketchbook for this module, but in other ways I am worried as that is usually how I would record ideas, I’m not used to just putting it all in to a file (which is what we have been asked to do) however, this will look more professional.

I took some notes from our talk and some photographs to support them because I can refer back to this blog as I am viewing it like a journal.

  • pigment print sits on the surface and turns crispy
  • print with a dye and it will stick to the fabric and soak in (double sided)

I was particularly drawn to the print on the fabric that i picked up because i knew exactly what techniques had been used:

  • firstly dyed with a dark colour
  • bleach out a silhouette of the pattern/motif with discharge
  • bring colour through separate screens over the bleached surface

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There were many other fabrics which we spoke about that interested me which used interesting techniques also such as this one:

  • synthetic fabric which already has a light background
  • 4/5 screens used to apply colour
  • darker colours are applied on top
  • finished with line

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I thought that the weave in this fabric was highly relevant because we have been talking about devore as one of our techniques, it is screen printed over the top of the weave which makes it more clear in some areas to others. My personal thoughts were that i’d probably add flocking to the darker areas to give the fabric more texture.